How to Crush Cairo in Three Days.
Ancient history and colorful culture make way for an unforgettable experience of Cairo that blends cosmopolitan chaos with storied sites and scenes.
It’s hard to begin writing about a city that’s made such a positive impact on my life. I owe everything I am today to the city of Cairo. I guess to my parents, too, as they’re the ones who suggested I spend my freshman year of High School abroad in the city that raised my dad. Notice how I said “raised him,” not “where he was raised?” Cairo has that effect on people.
Nearly a year after 9/11, a day that heavily impacted the lives of Muslims and Arabs for the rest of our lives, I had a hard time adjusting to the fallout. Despite being born and raised in the Midwest to an American mother, I always felt like an outsider in the States. I had a weird name no one can pronounce, I had to explain why I couldn’t eat at lunch at school for a whole month out of the year, and don’t even bother entertaining the idea of a sleepover. It ain’t happening. These were all parts of growing up in a Muslim/Middle-eastern household, but I had a hard time knowing because I didn’t see myself represented in the communities I was integrated within. I grew up traveling to Egypt, spending summers by the sea with family, staying up late playing cards with cousins, and reveling in the sights, smells, and sounds of a city that seemed to never stop. I always loved Egypt am eternally grateful to my parents, who made it a point to take me and my siblings back at such impressionable ages. So when my feelings of being lost and misunderstood quickly turned into mischief, my parents had an idea, “What if we see if Maissah wants to go to school in Cairo?” The rest was history, and I set out to start High School in one of the world’s most chaotic cities.
When I arrived I had a mix of nervousness and excitement. What I didn’t know, was that I was about to learn what it’s like to fall in love with a place rather than a person. I’ll never forget the first day my dad had to run a quick errand inside and he looked at me and said, “I’ll be 20 minutes, just keep the window down and watch life happen.” That moment stuck with me. Before the days of mindlessly scrolling on Instagram to pass the time, we were forced to witness and interact with everyday occasions. This is where my constant craving for culture began.
Up until last month, the last I was in Egypt was October 2010 just months before the Egyptian Revolution of 2011. Many revolutions came and went and because of the turmoil I started venturing off to other countries and places, most of them within Africa (clearly obsessed with the entire continent). This year, I made it a point to get back to Egypt, visit with old friends and close family, hit up some of my favorite haunts, and let the magic of Misr (Arabic for Egypt) wash over me. On this trip I spent about 10 days throughout the country spending most time in Cairo and then in El Gouna on the Red Sea. There’s no shortage of adventure or exploration in Egypt - everything from Siwa, the White Desert, the Valley of the Kings in Luxor and Abu Simble, the resort towns of the Red Sea and the Mediterranean Sea - the list goes on. So, when you have a limited amount of time in the capital city, take some tips from a former Cairene on how to conquer Cairo in 3 short days. Most important insider tip? Stay flexible. Nothing in Egypt goes according to plan, and everyone’s usually running late 😜
DAY ONE: ZAMALEK
If there were a neighborhood to see and be scene in Cairo while feeling immersed in the motion and movement of the city, Zamalek is it. International consulates and embassies dot the lush tree-lined streets giving the area a very global and metropolitan feel, while the cafes, restaurants and bakeries lend for endless options to eat, drink, and spectate the daily lives of the Egyptian elite and Ex-pat communities that inhabit the island. Oh, yes, I forgot to mention Zamalek is actually on an island. Gezira Island to be exact, and located in the middle of the Nile River. Connected to the mainland by the city’s main highway, Zamalek is not only a respite from the hustle and bustle of the city, but a hub for creatives and artists alike.
Start your day with coffee and a traditional Egyptian breakfast at Gezira Club, a members only sporting club. Don’t skip any dishes here, you’ll want one of everything: ful, tameya, hummus, baba ganoush, baladi bread, and the rest of the works. Egypt has a rich culture of sporting clubs specific to different regions and neighborhoods, and ultimately is where everything happens. Gezira Club is not only, in my opinion, the chicest and most elite sporting club in the city, but it’s literally the largest multi-sport facility in the whole country. Filled with acres of land including golf courses, swimming pools, full size track, squash and tennis courts and, of course, a bevy of eateries and tea spots.
Nestled amongst the boutiques and coffee shops, Zamalek is home to several art galleries with wares ranging from traditional paintings to local oriental jewelry and home goods. If you have a crafty, artsy friend back home who’ll appreciate hand-made local crafts while supporting local artists, Zamalek is the spot.
After eating a traditional Egyptian brunch at Gezira Club, get ready for a felucca ride down the historic Nile River and go all around Gezira Island. Finding the feluccas is harder nowadays as there’s construction happening along the riverfront, but head to what used to be my favorite spot in all of Cairo, Sequoia, or what is now known as Beeja. There’s a small stairwell across the street that leads down to the river, and this is where you’ll want to hitch a ride. Can’t find it? Just ask a local, they’ll be delighted to help you. Bring snacks and drinks for the ride, ask the boat driver to turn up the araby tunes and enjoy a private oriental boat tour around one of the most beautiful spots in the city, and historic rivers in the world.
After the felucca ride, hit the streets and pop into some of the shops and eateries Zamalek has to offer. Some spots not to miss: Diwan Bookstore for traditional and global book collections, Zooba for fast casual Egyptian eats, Beanos Cafe for coffee, Mobaco for everyday cotton garb ranging from polos and sweatpants to sweaters and scarves (all made in Egypt!), Maison Thomas for some really unique pizza offerings, and end it all with oriental sweet treats from the legendary bakery, Koueider. For a dinner set above the city streets with unparalleled views of the Nile River and a pretty epic people watching destination for Egypt’s glitterati, head over to rooftop restaurant and bar Crimson Lounge. Finish the night at one of Cairo’s most legendary nightlife spots, Cairo Jazz Club for a truly authentic and lively night out in Cairo experience.
DAY TWO: EGYPTIAN CIVILIZATION MUSEUM AND KHAN KHALILI
The scents of gasoline, cigarettes, and cooked meat over hot coals fuse together to alert you that another day is upon us in the land of the pharaohs. For breakfast, indulge in one of the country’s staple dishes, eggs and basterma, or, eggs with pastrami. It’s a whole omelet cooked with chopped pieces of cured and peppered beef and it’s by far one of my favorite breakfast dishes. This with a side of gebna romy (traditional Egyptian cheese that is hard, peppered and quite salty), fresh fruit, and al arosa tea is an ace way to start the day.
The Cairo Museum in the city center just around the corner from Tahrir Square or what’s now known as ground zero for the Egyptian Revolution of 2011, recently closed to make way for the Grand Egyptian Museum, situated in the Haram, also known as the grounds of Pyramids of Giza. Once complete, this Grand Museum will be one of the largest most modern museums in the world, housing artifacts and antiquities that date back well before 1200 BC. If you visit Cairo when this museum is open, DO NOT miss it. I got to see them working on it when I was in town last year, and it looks absolutely state-of-the-art and spectacular. Imagine being surrounded by some of the most coveted ancient Egyptian artifacts while having a 360 panoramic view of the Pyramids. Unreal.
In the meantime, tourists and locals can immerse themselves in the ancient artifacts stored at the Egyptian Civilization Museum in the Fustat neighborhood of Cairo. The petite but absolutely awe-inspiring museum houses several ancient mummies for your viewing pleasure, located in it’s dark and dimly lit basement. It’s the only museum in Egypt that offers visitors a general overview of all different historic periods that encompass Egyptian civilization. Divided into the Main Hall and the Mummies Hall, you’ll truly be floored by the art, architecture, and archeology that Ancient Egypt boasts. Being so close in proximity to the expertly-preserved mummies and being able to see them just inches away is ethereal and surreal. Make note that no photos are allowed in the Mummies Hall, but classic Cairo if you see an Egyptian slyly snapping one.
After the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, head over to heartbeat of Cairo, Khan el Khalili. Khan Khalili is known to be the world’s biggest bazaar, slanging everything from opulent gold and silvers to alabaster wares and mother of pearl plates and jewelry boxes. If you want to scoop souvenirs while in town, Khan Khalili is the spot to do it. Made in Egypt tees, hieroglyphic-adorned mugs and knick knacks, sheesha pipes and of course your pharaonic figurines can all be sourced here. Pro tip: whatever price they tell you, cut it by 50% to start your bargaining banter. While you’re there, take a respite from the madness and soak in the sights and sounds of one of the most historic spots in the whole city at one of the cafes or restaurants just near the entrance. Opt for a hot mint tea or sheesha as wafts (and sights) of freshly baked baladi bread make its way through the twists and turns of the packed market.
Keeping with the traditional oriental theme of the evening, make your way to the most legendary koshari spot, Abou Tarek for an authentic and filling bowl of Egypt’s staple dish. If you could sum Egypt up in one dish, Koshari is it. Enjoyed by everyone across all different classes, people come together over a bowl of the hearty and filling meal. The base of Koshari is a mix of rice, macaroni, garbanzo beans and lentils mixed together and outfitted with fried onions and crispy lentils topped with Shatta, a spicy tomato-based garlic sauce. Oh, and it’s naturally vegan which could possibly be the most filling and sustaining vegan dish on the planet.
DAY THREE: THE PYRAMIDS, CITADEL, AND KORBA STREET
Day three and lots of ground to cover as you wrap up a wildly productive three days in one of the most historic cities in the world. Start early by hitting the Pyramids of Giza before the crowds start to roll in. Note that this will be one of the worst places in the city to get heckled by locals and artisans selling their wares, so come prepared. As you start walking towards the pyramids you’ll see men start to surround you asking if you want to ride a camel or take a photo with one. If they tell you it’s free, don’t listen to them, they will not let you walk away without shelling out cash.
Where the city meets the sand, sprawling Cairo backs right up into the Pyramids with the desert in the near distance. It’s a wild juxtaposition of where the ancient and modern world meet. Once you’re face to face with one of the last remaining seven wonders of the ancient world, stop and close your eyes and soak in the sounds of galavanting horses and imagine for a quick second what it was like to live in that exact spot while Pharaohs ruled the world. Let the awe-inspiring landscape wash over you as you stand face-to-face with Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure. Opt to take a tour inside of the pyramids to get a feel for the energy and vibrations they generate. Don’t leave the grounds without driving up about a half kilometer to get the panoramic views of all three pyramids together, a snap not to be missed! Once you’ve got a a solid line-up of options for your Instagram post, make your way down to my favorite part of the whole haram - the Sphinx.
If you’re looking to lunch before heading to the next sights, there’s plenty of options to dine with the pyramids as your backdrop. When I was a kid we’d walk over to the Pizza Hut right across the street, and honestly that Pizza Hut is a VIBE. Tell me where else in the world you can eat Pizza Hut across the street from PYRAMIDS??? Didn’t think so. But, if you’re looking for something a bit more chic chic, head to 139 Pavilion inside of the Marriott Mena House Hotel for a tranquil and scenic respite.
Next stop: The Citadel! One of my favorite places in Cairo and one that is so steeped in history, both old and new. The medieval fortress built by Salah El Din served as the seat of government for Egypt for over 700 years. The government and military relevance to the location is on display all throughout the grounds, as it houses the Egyptian Military Museum. When perusing the space with my dad we stumbled upon the Military Museum and though I was reluctant to check it out, I’m super glad we did. There’s floors upon floors of ancient artifacts, historic periods, weapons of past rulers that can keep one occupied all day. The bright hues and patterns that adorn the museum give you major Wes Anderson feels, too. The Citadel is home to the mosque of Mohammed Ali, one of the most beautiful mosques in the whole country situated at the top of the city with truly sprawling views. Everyone from Barack Obama to Malcom X has walked the floors of the historic mosque you can feel an energy consume you as you walk through.
After you’ve wrapped up at the Citadel, head over to Korba Street in the Heliopolis neighborhood of Cairo for some acute chaos and lunch. Korba is one of those streets that’s always alive and bustling, but what makes Korba unique is that it’s in the heart of one of Cairo’s upscale neighborhoods. There’s plenty of souvenir shops to pick up some last minute gifts that you may have forgot to get at Khan Khalili, plus there are plenty of artisans selling their hand-crafted wares along the streets and sidewalks. For lunch, it’s Koshary again but this time at Hend. Order up and enjoy it in the back of the restaurant before heading out for one last oriental dessert at the best spot in town, Koeudir of course. Opt for the pistachio ice cream while you reminisce about how you just absorbed and observed one of the most amazing ancient and modern cultures of our era. Egypt is by far one of the most magical places in the world that cannot be experienced in just one trip, which is why I crammed so much in this 3 day itinerary. After soaking up the city life, escape out to one of the amazing resort towns or seaside villages like Dahab, Hurghada, Sharm el Sheikh, or Marsa Alam.
