Negril is the Jewel of Jamaica💎
Irie Vibes Await 💨
Crystal clear waters alongside sandy beaches, rocky cliffs colliding with deep blue hues, lush farmland teeming with fresh fruit, the smokey smell of jerk chicken, and nothing but irie vibes. These are all essential elements of a tranquil island trip to one of the most relaxing locales in the Caribbean…Jamaica.
An island where time seems nonexistent, Jamaica is one of those destinations you can truly release your worries and relax, recharge, and restore. Whether you’re just looking for beach fun in the sun, jungle adventures, or cultural and culinary tours of the island, you can pretty much accomplish your itinerary while still finding time to chillllllll like a local. For me, there’s three key elements that make up a solid beach holiday – luscious beaches, incredible local cuisine, and rich culture. I love a beach trip, but if there’s not much else to do than lay, swim, and sleep, I’m out. I need a destination that’s both beautiful and relaxing but also has deep cultural and historical significance that can only be experienced on the island. There’s truly nowhere else I’d rather be less than a tourist-infested beach destination sandwiched in between all-inclusive resorts. And Negril ain’t that.
When planning a getaway to the island, I was struggling with which part of the island to stay in. Port Antonio, Kingston, Negril, Ocho Rios? So I called up my resident Jamaican, Amber, to pick her brain. Both her parents were born and raised in Jamaica and even own and operate one of the most notorious Jamaican restaurants in NYC, Negril Village. I knew she’d have the scoop and after a few text exchanges she basically had my whole trip mapped out. “Go to Negril, Girl – it’s like true Jamaica chill,” was all I needed to hear before I booked my tickets flying into Montego Bay and then just a 90 minute drive to one of the most magical places on the island, Negril.
There’s really only one road to get to Negril, and because of this, I feel as though the town hasn’t been overrun by tourists or mega hotels. All of the hotels and resorts in the center of town are fairly petite, with the exception of a few nausea-inducing all-inclusive resorts propped up by conglomerates like Sandals and Beaches. Fortunately, these are just on the road to the center of town, not actually in the center of town. Negril is lovely because while there’s tons of travelers, the town is predominately run by locals. Push carts abound, coconut stands, and Juici Jamaican Patty shacks line the main strip as wafts of Jamaican jerk fill the air. The air is thick as a calm ocean breeze provides some sort of movement amidst the humidity.
The cliffs of Negril
Negril is an ideal location for those looking for two kinds of beach experiences – the rocky cliffs and the sandy beaches. My recommendation is to split your time between the two. We did two nights along the cliffs and two nights along the infamous 7 Mile Beach and it was the perfect amount of time at each, as well as a different experience. If you’re staying on the cliffs, I highly recommend the legendary Rockhouse Hotel, and then it’s sister spot Skylark along 7 Mile beach. Both harbor two of the best restaurants in the area – The Rockhouse Restaurant at the Rockhouse Hotel and my absolute favorite Jamaican restaurant, Miss Lily’s, located on the beach inside Skylark. Both hotels ooze quintessential cool Jamaica decked out with vintage art, bright and bold colors, and airy leafy atmospheres. Pro tip: book your stay as early as possible, these hotels are almost always sold out.
Food is a main attraction in Jamaica and there’s plenty to go around. But, Negril is one of those locations where you kind of have to follow your nose. Yes, there are the baller seaside restaurants like Ivan’s Restaurant or Rockhouse Restaurant, but you wouldn’t be a traveler if you weren’t on the hunt for the no-name, hole-in-the-wall, doesn’t have a website kind of place. And Jamaica has lots of those. On a drive into the farmland en route to the Appleton Estate, we told our driver we wanted to stop for jerk chicken, and whenever we smelled that sweet smoke in the air we’d pull to the side and order up (we stopped three times 😈). These places don’t have names, so you really need to just use your best judgement and refer to your guide for reassurance. Jamaica is a spot where roadside restaurants and no-name pushcarts can be trusted, and you’ll be pleased to know you can drink the tap water there, too. In the heart of Negril is Best in the West, a Jamaican jerk restaurant that literally might be the best in the west. Get the whole Jerk Chicken dinner, and their potato salad is on point. For beach eats, I cannot recommend Flag City Seafood enough. You can only get there by walking down seven mile beach, and it’s pretty much just a small shack, one picnic table, and a cooler. Order up the lobster and crab curry and watch them pull it out live from a cage they keep in the ocean. Can’t get fresher than that. As dancehall beats blast through the speaker, waves crash near your feet, and your wild caught crustaceans cook over an open coal fire beside you, the words ‘don’t worry about a thing, cause every little thing, gonna be alright,’ could not be more fitting than in this moment.
Roadside Jamaican Jerk
Fresh lobster at Flag City Seafood
Crab Curry at Flag City Seafood
Juici Jamaican Patties - THE BEST.
If you see this sign, you’ve arrived at Best in the West.
Roadside fish.
If you’re venturing out to a fancier restaurant like Ivan’s listed above, opt for the Lobster Thermador, Seafood Curry, Goat Curry, and Coconut Shrimp. Oh btw, coconut shrimp in Negril is 🔥. Don’t knock it, it’s weirdly very legit. No trip to Negril would be complete without sunset dinner and drinks at Rick’s Café. Unfortunately this is one of those tourist destinations you kind of need to go to. And I’ll be honest, the people watching was next level. Watching blackout drunk Americans try to dance to reggaeton while grinding up on strangers really makes for a great show, and makes me grateful we weren’t one of them. Come an hour or so before sunset and watch locals and travelers alike jump high off the cliffs into the ocean, and bring your swimsuit if you feel so inclined to do the same. It was so much fun watching all the different people take jumps and dives, and you’ll get lucky if you see someone dive off from the highest point, which I think it around 500ft in the air. At Rick’s, get the jerk lobster and spicy crab if they’re still available. For being a tourist destination, they were both absolutely fantastic dishes.
Spicy Crab at Rick’s Cafe.
Jerk Lobster at Rick’s Cafe.
The famous sunset from the amazing views at Rick’s Cafe.
Lobster Thermador at Ivan’s Restaurant.
Oxtail Curry at Ivan’s Restaurant.
Rick’s Cafe at Night.
Negril is the jewel of Jamaica for a load of different reasons. The locals are friendly and welcoming, and most importantly, they’re proud to show off their town. The food is no-frills unless you want it to be and it’s almost always great anywhere you go. It’s the place where you can do everything or nothing and still feel at ease. Everyone you meet is just about the sweetest soul who generally just wants you to enjoy the island and will go out of their way to ensure you do. Quintessential phrases like yah mon, respect, and one love really remind you where you are, and why you’ll want to return.
Tiki Ponda Sea
Back of the Napkin Tips
Negril isn’t cheap so don’t come down to the island thinking your money will go farther. All the prices at the full service restaurants were about on par with Chicago, and even bodega snacks are about the same as back home. While it’s not necessary to have Jamaican dollars, I’d recommend having a couple thousand on hand for tips. Either currency you go, definitely have cold hard cash and don’t rely on your credit card for every purchase. A lot of small local places don’t accept cards, but the main tourist areas do. Pro-tip: When visiting another country, it can come off as arrogant assuming locals take your foreign currency. Go the extra step and withdraw local currency. It makes the trip easier, pleases the merchants you interact with, and might even save you a couple bucks.
If you’re organizing any day trips or excursions, allow for extra time. There’s one main road that goes all around the island, and time moves much slower when you’re in the back of a van.
If you’re on the hunt for roadside jerk, most of the local pushcarts don’t open until noon.
There’s plenty of day cruises you can take, and I highly recommend going with Tiki Ponda Sea. The owner Fabian is like a local celebrity, and a quintessential island boy with amazing energy. Him and his crew will take great care of you whether you want a mimosa cruise or snorkeling and swimming excursion.
The island is coming out of the shadows of a 2+ year pandemic and they’re trying to rebuild and make up for time lost when travelers weren’t permitted to come to the island. Be sure to be appreciative and spread the love (aka: tips!) as much as you can. It’s greatly appreciate by all islanders.
STAY at Skylark
EAT at Flag City Seafood
ADVENTURE to the Appleton Estate
DON’T MISS the sunset at Rick’s Cafe
